I am so excited to show you this! I have been so busy working on learning, or trying to learn, WordPress and working on some larger projects that time has flown by and I have not posted anything. I was also in dire need of a quick fix of “completion satisfaction” to motivate me to finish some of my bigger projects so I made this hat. It is worked from the bottom up and works up quite quickly. I love beautiful, functional projects that are also quick. 
I used the Caron Pantone yarns in two colour ways, Morning Blues and Faerie Cakes, because each of my children need one and of course, they have to be different right? I really liked working with the Caron Pantone. I was very surprised that this yarn has such a nice drape to it. It is a No.5 Bulky yarn and is very soft (thank you Merino Wool) but has a surprising weight to the finished project.
My children love their hats and really that is all that really matters right?
I struggled with the colour changes a bit on this hat after all that is what the Pantone skeins are all about, but the stitch just didn’t look tidy for some reason. I tend to be a perfectionist and using a slip stitch to join the rows did not provide the nice seamless look when changing colours. After trying a few different variations I have settled on the invisible join technique to end a row before changing colours. It is something I learned when doing overlay crochet mandalas. My favourite are those designed by Lilla Bjorn. Check out her tutorial here to learn more about invisible joining (a.k.a. needle joining). Joining in this way fixed the problem.
I love the braided look to this stitch. The trick to this stitch pattern is that despite working in the round you need to turn your work at the end of each row. You cannot achieve the same look if you do not turn your work. I like how the braided stitch still has lots of give to it, without creating big holes, which I like for hats. Since it has this give the hats last longer on my ever growing kids and also makes the pattern more forgiving when you are selecting the size you want to make. I had previously posted that I was trying to finish some WIPS and one of them was a beautiful tapestry crochet hat. I still haven’t finished it yet, technically. I have actually almost completed it 3 times only to find out that I had not made the correct size for my son’s head (I hope to have the right size finished soon). Unfortunately, that is just one of the joys of tapestry crochet, there really isn’t much give to it, although it is very beautiful. That said this stitch has just the right amount of stretch and it is very warm for our -22 degree Celsius January weather.
So lets get started on the pattern!
The Braided Beanie
Please enjoy this pattern and the hats you will make. If you have any questions please do not hesitate to email me and I will do my best to answer your questions.
What you will need…
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- One skein of Caron Pantone in a colour scheme of your choice for 19″ inch or less heads and 2 skeins for larger sizes. The extra skein in the larger sizes is largely to accommodate colour transitions at the beginning of rows rather than mid-way through a row. I used Morning Blues and Faerie Cakes.
- Crochet hook 6 mm (J-10) or the size that will give an acceptable gauge.
- Scissors
- Fashion Button for decoration (optional)
- Tapestry needle (to weave in ends and join)
Yarn Weight: Bulky or No. 5
Experience Level: Intermediate or Adventurous beginner.
Gauge: 15 dc per 4 inches and 9 rows per 4 inches.
Sizes: Head circumference: 20″ (21″, 22″, 23″, 24″) which fits children from age 6 up to adult, but it is always best to measure your head to be sure which size you should use.
Abbreviations Used:
st(s) – stitch(es)
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
ehdc – extended half double crochet
ehdc dec – extended half double crochet decrease
NJ – needle join
yo – yarn over
lp(s) – loop(s)
flo – front loop only
sk – skip st(s)
sp – space
beg – beginning
SM – Stitch Marker
*… crochet proceeding directions as many times as indicated.
Skills Needed:
- You need to be proficient in your basic crochet stitches.
- You need to be comfortable with working in the round.
Important Notes:
- Beginning ch(s) are not included in stitch count unless noted otherwise.
- I tend to crochet loosely. If you do not, you may need to adjust your hook sizes to achieve proper sizing.
- Stitches are not worked through both loops please read the pattern carefully to make sure you are working your stitches in the correct loops otherwise you will not achieve the desired look.
- Do count your stitches, it will help you make sure you haven’t missed stitches in each row, stitch counts have been provided to assist at the end of each row instruction.
- The colour changes listed in the pattern are rough guides. Once you have used up a colour from the skein, change colours. DO NOT change colours mid-row.
- When you work a needle join be sure to weave in your ends before moving to the next row. If you need a tutorial on needle joining Lilla Bjorn has a wonderful one here. This tutorial also covers starting a row with a slip know on your hook.
PATTERN
Band of Hat
Begin by chaining 7 chains.
Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in each stitch across row, turn. (6 (6/ 7/ 8/8) stitches)
Row 2: ch 1 (does not count as first stitch), hdc in the third loop in each st across row. (6 (6/ 7/ 8/8) stitches)
Repeat row 2 until your band reaches the required length.
Circumference of Head / Length of Band
20″ / 19″
21″ / 20″
22″ / 21″
23″ / 22″
24″ / 23″
Once you have reached the correct length fasten off. With band ends together, without twisting, whip stitch the two ends together. Weave in any remaining ends. Turn the seamed edge to the inside while you work on the rest of the hat.
Body of Hat
Thus far you have worked on the hat vertically. Now that it is a circular band we will turn it horizontally and work the body of the hat.
* Depending on the size of hat you are working on you will likely be starting with colour number 2 when you start the body of the hat.
ALL SIZES
Row 1: with a slip knot on the hk, join yarn with a sl st at the same place as the seam from the band. ch 1 (does not count as 1st st), evenly space 60sc (65, 70, 75, 80) around the band. Join with a sl st to the top of the first sc. Place a SM around the post of the first sc so you know where the first stitch is from here on in. (60 (65, 70, 75, 80) stitches)
Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as first stitch), ehdc in each sc around hat, sl st to top of first ehdc (skip over the ch 2) to join. (60 (65, 70, 75, 80) stitches)
Row 3: Turn work. You will now be working the opposite way around the hat. Ch 1 (does not count as 1st sl st) sl st in blo st immediately below ch 1 and in each stitch around the entire row. Sl st to beginning sl st. (60 (65, 70, 75, 80) stitches)
NOTE: It can be difficult to locate the first sl st when you make it back around the hat to the beginning of the row. I encourage you place a SM in the first sl st just after you complete it so it is easier to find later.
Row 4: Turn work. Ch 2 (does not count as first stitch), ehdc in each blo of the sl st below, around row. See note below for more helpful information on locating the blo of the sl st. Needle join to top of first ehdc. (60 (65, 70, 75, 80) stitches)
Row 5: Turn work. Starting with a new colour, start with a slip knot on the hook and join with a sl st in first stitch of row through both loops (this counts as 1st sl st in row). Sl st in blo of each stitch below around row. Sl st to beginning sl st.
Row 6: Turn work. Ch 2 (does not count as first stitch), ehdc in each sc around hat, sl st to top of first ehdc (skip over the ch 2) to join. (60 (65, 70, 75, 80) stitches)
Row 7: Turn work. Ch 1 (does not count as 1st sl st) sl st in blo st immediately below ch 1 and in each stitch around the entire row. Sl st to beginning sl st. (60 (65, 70, 75, 80) stitches)
Row 8: Turn work. Ch 2 (does not count as first stitch), ehdc in each blo of the sl st below, around row, sl st to top of first ehdc (skip over the ch 2) to join. (60 (65, 70, 75, 80) stitches)
Row 9: Turn work. Ch 1 (does not count as 1st sl st) sl st in blo st immediately below ch 1 and in each stitch around the entire row. Needle join to the beginning sl st.(60 (65, 70, 75, 80) stitches)
IF WORKING A HAT FOR A 20″ HEAD SKIP FORWARD TO DECREASE SECTION . ALL OTHER SIZES CONTINUE ON
Row 10: Turn work. Starting with a new colour, start with a slip knot on the hook and join with a sl st in first stitch of row through both loops. Ch 2 (does not count as first stitch), ehdc in each blo of the sl st below, around row, sl st to top of first ehdc (skip over the ch 2) to join. ((65, 70, 75, 80) stitches)
Row 11: Turn work. Ch 1 (does not count as 1st sl st) sl st in blo st immediately below ch 1 and in each stitch around the entire row. Sl st to beginning sl st. ((65, 70, 75, 80) stitches)
IF WORKING A HAT FOR A 21″ and 22″ HEAD SKIP FORWARD TO DECREASE SECTION . ALL OTHER SIZES CONTINUE ON
Row 12: Turn work. Ch 2 (does not count as first stitch), ehdc in each blo of the sl st below, around row, sl st to top of first ehdc (skip over the ch 2) to join. (65, 70, 75, 80) stitches
Row 13: Turn work. You will now be working the opposite way around the hat. Ch 1 (does not count as 1st sl st) sl st in blo st immediately below ch 1 and in each stitch around the entire row. Needle join to beginning sl st. (65, 70, 75, 80) stitches
Crown Decrease
Row 1: Turn work. Starting with a new colour, start with a slip knot on the hook and join with a sl st in first stitch of row through both loops. Ch 2 (does not count as first stitch), *2ehdc (1st stitch immediately below ch) in blo of sl st below, ehdc dec in the blo over following two sl sts. Repeat from * around hat, sl st to top of first ehdc (skip over the ch 2) to join. (45 (49, 53, 57, 60) stitches)
Row 2: Turn work. Ch 1 (does not count as 1st sl st) sl st in blo st immediately below ch 1 and in each stitch around the entire row. Sl st to beginning sl st. (45 (49, 53, 57, 60) stitches)
Row 3: Turn work. Work a ehdc dec all the way around the row. If you are working a size of hat where you are left with one remaining st at the end of the row (al sizes except 24″), your last st will be a single ehdc before you sl st to join. Sl st to top of beginning ehdc dec. (23 (25, 27, 29, 30) stitches)
Row 4: Turn work. Ch 1 (does not count as 1st sl st) sl st in blo st immediately below ch 1 and in each stitch around the entire row. Sl st to beginning sl st. (23 (25, 27, 29, 30) stitches)
Row 5: Turn work. Work a ehdc dec all the way around the row. If you are working a size of hat where you are left with one remaining st at the end of the row, your last st will be a ehdc before you sl st to join. Sl st to top of beginning ehdc dec. (12 (13, 14, 15, 15) stitches)
Fasten off leaving a tail approx. 8 inches long
To close off hat, use the amigurami method of closing, but use the back loops of the ehdc, instead of the front loops. Here is a good tutorial on this technique, worked on the front loops. Using the back loops gives it a very pretty finish that suits the pattern in this hat.
Tie off and weave in ends.
I Hope you enjoy your creation!
Do you need more easy & elegant ideas for your next crochet retreat, visit www.thecrochetspa.com